Designers

Jacquemus

Born in the South of France, Simon Porte Jacquemus has an undeniable affinity for the seaside, and with every collection, he professes his love for the free-spirited childhood he was endowed with. At 18, Jacquemus moved to Paris to study at the École Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode. One year in, after the abrupt passing of his mother, Jacquemus founded his own label, naming it in her honor—Jacquemus being her maiden name.

While developing his line, the self-taught designer staged guerilla-style fashion shows throughout Paris, and eventually caught the discerning eye of Rei Kawakubo. With her and husband Adrian Joffe’s support, Jacquemus was given a position at the Comme des Garçons store in Paris to fund collections. There, he also used the brand’s minimalism and structural prominence as references. His lack of formal training has allowed him to create with a spontaneity and naïveté that result in honest, whimsical pieces to reflect his most heartfelt influences.

Having earned two nominations for the LVMH prize to date and winning the jury award, Jacquemus has come to be recognized as one of the most important French designers of the decade. The clothing he creates always begin as stories rather than accouterment, but the transition from one to the other is seamless and his knack for narrative has earned him a reputation for experiential runway shows.

In every season thus far, Jacquemus has used architectural shaping to define his aesthetic. Playful geometry is rampant throughout with nostalgic tribute paid to relics of his provençal roots. Asymmetry, stiff silhouettes, and angular lines, are all elements he experiments with while still projecting a French femininity visible in his use of ruffle trims as seen on the La Chemise Seville and Le Haut Seville tops. Unconventional heels like the sculpted mules also showcase Jacquemus’ fondness for offbeat construction.

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